Sparking Joy: A conversation with Bakers & Larners’ Henry Baker

In our home town of Holt, Sponge has the privilege to be nestled in with an array of successful independent businesses, whose grit, determination and above all, passion make the town such a fantastic place to work. One of those businesses, is Bakers & Larners of Holt, a luxury independent department store with a history as long as your arm.

For those unfamiliar with Bakers & Larners of Holt (part of the CT Baker Group), imagine stepping back in time to a department store of your childhood. There’s an air of nostalgia as you walk through the historic building, stocking everything you could ever wish for from garden and DIY to high-end fashion, homewares and pet accessories. But the area with most interest has to be their award-winning Food Hall, filled with the most luxurious and unusual treats, including: toast and marmalade flavoured chocolate, the intriguingly named Spaghetti Dust, Cambodian salted pepper corns, and their own brand of Escargots De Bourgogne, to name just a few…

The CT Baker Group has seen many incarnations, starting out life as a humble ironmongers in 1770, producing cast iron grates which can still be found in the Georgian market town, to today’s empire spanning across Norfolk with builders merchants and supermarkets, and the iconic department store sat in Sponge’s home town of Holt, Norfolk.

We talked to Bakers & Larners' Head of Business Development, Henry Baker, about what it’s like to be the 9^th generation working for the family business that has spanned 255 years and 10 monarchs, as well as what Christmas means to Holt.

What is the biggest myth or misconception about running a store that's been in the same family for so long?

That it’s all straight forward because it was set up by the people before you. There’s no doubt about it that there’s a huge advantage to the incredible work and efforts of generations before you, but it doesn’t stop you having to keep your eye on the ball and move with the times. We have to keep making sure we are still relevant. We can’t rest on our laurels.

In a world of online giants and chain stores, what is the secret ingredient that has allowed a family-run independent store to thrive across four centuries?

We believe that quality of service is a paramount, be it knives and forks or high-end clothing. We believe that the reason people come back to us is for the experience that we offer and to see the friendly faces that we work with. People can come in and do quite a comprehensive shop from a pot of paint at one end to a nice pair of leather shoes at the other, and most things in between!

But our staff are the jewel in the crown. We have several people who have worked here for over 25 years and some even longer than that; we’ve had staff who have started at 16 years old and stayed until they retired at 60 or 70. 

You mention quality of service, you have often been called the “Harrods of Norfolk,” what does that mean to the business? 

It’s very flattering to be known as that and to be compared to some of the London retail giants. It does come back to quality of service, really looking after our customers and making sure they have a fantastic experience and want to come back again. Families have shopped here for generations. People enjoy coming to the store and enjoy the nostalgia that comes with that. I think nostalgia is probably one of the main reasons people enjoy coming here, it draws people back and especially at Christmas.

The building itself is Grade III listed with all its 'nooks and crannies.' If these walls could talk, what one story from the past 250+ years would you most like to hear?

I would like to go back in time and be a fly on the wall and watch my ancestors from years gone by operate and listen to how they work, how they deal with customers and what their plans to evolve are. It would be amazing to hear them talk about what we would be in 255 years. What did they want to be? Could they even imagine that 9 generations later the family would still be involved?

If you had to describe Bakers & Larners philosophy into just three words, what would they be?

Family. Sustainability. Community.

What does being a "custodian of Holt's heritage" feel like in the daily running of the business?

Every plan we as a family and board have for the company, we always have in mind our family from years gone by and protecting the legacy that they have created. We’re honoured to be a part of the town’s fabric and to have helped the town become what it is today and therefore it’s important for us that the decisions we make are in line with our core values; looking after the community, looking after the people, and not making rash decisions. Being a family business, it does make you spring out of bed in the morning because you think “this is not just a job, it’s a lifestyle.” I want to have something to hand down to my children, when the time comes, and you want it to carry on forever so you give it your all. 

If a visitor only had an hour in Holt, what is one non-Bakers & Larners spot you'd send them to see to capture the spirit of the town?

I would send them to one of the incredible shopping yards in Holt. They have some fantastic architecture to admire, but crucially they are filled with some amazing independent businesses; specialists, artisans, makers, and people who really care. There’s an element of discovery that makes you want to go in and find out more. The great thing about Holt being full of independent businesses is that people make a whole day trip to see us, not just any one of us, but to have a great day out and have something to eat, drink and shop. We view Holt as a big shopping centre and because we all get on in the town, we all support each other and refer each other, it’s a great thing to be a part of.

Which single department in the store truly comes alive and embodies the Christmas spirit the most for you?

I’ll have to say the Wine Department. We have people come in to buy their Christmas drinks and tipples. Patrick and Darryl, the experts down there, might give the customer a taste to help them decide. They can always find a bottle that suits them and their budget. Our cellar is a great thing too; it’s a working cellar that stores just over 20,000 bottles of wine. It also has a 16^th century vault which is used as our Port room to this day. It’s quite the facility.

If you weren't working at Bakers & Larners, but were simply a regular customer, which one item would you travel the furthest to buy from the Food Hall?

The local cheese, easily. We’ve got an incredible buying team in the Food Hall they keep in great contact with our suppliers, local and further afield. Our Delicatessen counter is 18 metres long, so you can only imagine how many cheeses can fit in there!

You’re famous for your Christmas hampers, what do you think makes them so successful?

Hampers are an essential for many families at Christmas and there’s tough competition for filling that role. We have a dedicated team packing, ordering and organising to ensure everything runs smoothly. From cheese hampers, to dietary specific, we even do bespoke hampers in store. Most products are locally sourced where we can which people seem to love. There’s something for everyone. 

Bakers & Larners has seen many famous faces over the years; which celebrity, dead or alive, would you love to see walk through the doors today?

Keith Floyd. He’d be a good shopper, he would enjoy the wine department, our cookshop and homewares – we have some fantastic Norfolk knives here. He would also like the Food Hall for all its variety and options, and he’d be a good laugh too!

And finally, if Bakers & Larners were a flavour of Sponge cake, what flavour would it be? 

Victoria. It’s a traditional flavour which is what we are about, a family favourite which is what we try to be, and it pleases most people! A classic for a reason.

Stepping into Bakers & Larners feels a bit like slicing into a classic Victoria Sponge; comforting, nostalgic, and made with generations of love. After chatting with Henry, it’s clear the magic isn’t just in their iconic Food Hall or that 18-metre cheese counter, but in the centuries of history and tradition folded gently into every nook and cranny. From their ironmongery beginnings in 1770 to being Holt’s festive heartbeat today, they’ve kept the same recipe: family, community, and proper old-school service.